Please note that this post was first published in August 4, 2015, and some of the details, links and offers may no longer be active.
Once a week our daily blog post is going to focus in on a single image. The picture may have been taken that morning or a while ago… the idea is to give that picture its space and tell the story behind it or the way in which we achieved the shot. The series is going to be called “ONE”
The first instalment is from the archives… taken back on the 2nd May 2011. It was during an Autumn on the mid north coast that just kept giving. We had back to back swells for a good 3 months. I actually had a drifty focus on video for that season. I was filming Harley Ingleby’s part for the Taylor Steele’s Innersection film that was to be released later that year. It was only a 3 minute section, but it took us over 3 months to pull it all together!! film can be a long process!!
Anyway this particular morning I was just getting myself set up, taking a few still pictures to assess the best angle to shoot the video footage from. Harley had just paddled out into a lineup that looked confused but chunky with a new north-east swell that was pounding the coastline. Most spots were maxed out and some would say this spot was just washing through, but it did have the occasional nugget amongst the mess. So we thought we would just give it a quick go.
He had only just got out into the lineup when this absolute drain-pipe materialised. It came in looking like a giant messy lump of ocean, but then it did something really strange… something I hadn’t seen before or since… not in this manner anyhow. Just as it approached the sandbar a truckload of water pulled in all the right directions to shape this single wave into crazy clean wall complete with ribs in wave face and a lip that increased in size as Harley paddled into it. It started to look like a good one but by the time he got to his feet the wave sucked more water from down the beach to shape a hollow section that rifled down the line with Harley standing backside no-hands and travelling at top speed…
Did he make it??… no not this one, he got super deep (I have many pics in the sequence where you can’t see even the tip of his board) at the end of the wave it got a reverse spit that back-blew water into Harley face with such velocity that his face stung for the rest of the morning.
Harley catches hundreds of waves every week, but I know he will always remember this one. It was one gem on a day that didn’t look like a wave with that sort of quality was possible… a freak wave!
You can still get the video Innersection I believe. I haven’t watched it for years, I might go and put it on now for a quick trip down memory lane.. trailer below…
music by DARK BELLS wildflower